Passopisciaro is considered one of Sicily’s top estates. The wines have received incredibly high scores and have tremendous aging potential. Mainly made from local varietals Nerello Mascalese, they are perceived as “Italian Burgundy”.
Passopiscario’s Story
Andrea Franchetti is the talented owner and winemaker of Tenuta di Trinoro in Tuscany. His love for bold and richly concentrated style of wine, with Bordeaux being his favourite, meant he had always worked with international varietals. However, this was about to change. In the year 2000, after being tipped by a friend, Andrea visited the northern slope of Mount Etna to explore some neglected ancient vineyards. He saw great potential in the elevated terraces sitting on lava soils and planted with Nerello Mascalese.
Andrea settled on specific plots locally known as Contrada (Sciaranuova, Porcaria, Rampante, Chiappemacine and Guardiola) and purchased an existing winery, which he renovated, just outside the town of Passopisciaro. The first Sicilian wine he produced, Passorosso, quickly received critical acclaims and became one of the pivotal wines which put Etna on the map.
At first, Passorosso was a blend of the Contradas but Andrea quickly realised each is defined by its elevation, exposure, slope and the age of the underlying soil created by the various lava flows that occurred over time. They are similar to the cru vineyards of Burgundy or Barolo, and in order to understand Etna and its individual vineyards on a deeper level, he decided to harvest and bottle them as single-vineyard.
Vineyard & Winemaking
The vineyards have been replanted at a density of 12,000 vines per hectare and are between 70 and 100 years old. The focus is on local varietal Nerello Mascalese but some Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, and Cesanese d’Affile are also grown to make the whites and 'Super-Etnean' Franchetti. Five Contrada are vinified as single vineyards and and four others are part of Passorosso’s blend.
Because both Contrada Rampante and Contrada Chiappemacine are outside the Etna DOC boundary, all wines are labelled as Terre Siciliane IGT and can’t use the Contrada name on the label, so just the letter is used. Passorosso, however, is sourced from Guardiola (their biggest single vineyard) and new holdings in the north slope of the volcano. It has the Etna Rosso DOC status.
Chiappemacine is the lowest single vineyard cru at 550m above sea level and lies on the last outreach of Mount Etna’s lava; where the thinner strata of lava lies above a limestone bed which the vines penetrate.
Porcaria sits at 650m above the sea and has a soil made of a frail sheet of lava that splinters under one’s feet.
Sciaranuova is located at 850m above sea level on a lava flow from the 1600s that has turned into thick gravel.
Guardiola sits at 800 and 1,000m above sea level, on the edge of the lava flow from Etna’s 1947 eruption.
Rampante is the highest cru at 1,000 m above sea level and lava with sandy soils.
Due to his love for bold wines, Andrea’s first vintages emphasized extraction. However, the berry size of Nerello Masacalese is small so the juice has high tannin content. As a result, Andrea quickly changed his approach and avoided extraction. Both Contrada wines and Passorosso are aged for 18 months in large neutral oak barrels and unfiltered.
Passopisciaro’s Scores
Etna Rosso Passorosso 2022
Beguiling nose of red fruit and pistachios, with flowers and black pepper enhancing the aromas. The attack is a bit raw, with edgy tannins and crisp acidity. It’s medium- to full-bodied and chewy, with a balanced finish. It needs time to soften the structure, but displays a tight, crunchy youthful style that will match well with food and has the potential for aging. This high-altitude vineyard delivers greatness. Drink after 2028. - 94 points James Suckling
Contrada CP 2021
Aromas of cooked apples, creme caramel, and nougat follow through to a full body with layers of fruit. It is soft and round textured, yet tensioned with lots of acidity at the end. Minerals such as stone and basalt. Some white pepper and honeysuckle, too. Pure chardonnay planted at 950 meters high, and is said to be the highest chardonnay vineyard in Italy. Made in stainless and aged in large oak vats. Complex. Drink now or hold. - 93 points James Suckling
Contrada G 2022
Earthy strawberries, dried flowers and soft spices on the nose. On the palate the wine is crunchy, with a medium body and crisp acidity. The tight, firm tannins are still youthful in the finish. Drinkable now, but will improve in complexity with aging. - 96 points James Suckling
Contrada S 2022
A complex nose of almost vermouth-like aromas, dried cherries, cinnamon, oak bark, rich black cherries and hints of smoke. Firm tannin and acidity with a full body, a tight-knit finish and restrained toastiness in the aftertaste. Drinkable now, but best from 2028. - 95 points James Suckling
Contrada R 2022
Beguiling nose of red fruit and pistachios, with flowers and black pepper enhancing the aromas. The attack is a bit raw, with edgy tannins and crisp acidity. It’s medium- to full-bodied and chewy, with a balanced finish. It needs time to soften the structure, but displays a tight, crunchy youthful style that will match well with food and has the potential for aging. This high-altitude vineyard delivers greatness. Drink after 2028 - 97 points James Suckling