Last Friday I was lucky enough to meet visionary winemaker and founder of Bodegas Chacra Piero Incisa della Rocchetta to taste his wines. Piero is a member of the family that owns Sassicaia. In Patagonia, he saw the potential of the Mainque terroir and founded Chacra in 2003. He quickly mastered his Pinot Noirs and works closely with esteemed Burgundian Super Star Jean-Marc Roulot to produce fantastic Chardonnays. His wines score incredibly high and rival with Burgundy's Grand Cru.
Low intervention and biodynamic farming are the two key elements in Chacra's winemaking process. We discussed soil regeneration, which is an important topic amongst organic and biodynamic farmers at present. Fortunately, Piero purchased a land, in pristine conditions where no chemicals had been sprayed, which is not the case of many growers during the 80s. It was planted with old vines, some as far back 1932 (Yes people were growing Pinot Noir in Patagonia in the 30s).
Piero is passionate about long term vine health and talks about his vines as if they are people. It might sound cliché, but it has real-life effects on the viticulture. He avoids stressing his vines as much as possible to increase the concentration in the grapes. Instead, he keeps his vines as healthy as possible. All wines are certified organic and biodynamic and are matured with very little new oak. They are characterised by their floral aromas, purity of fruits and a nice minerality.
He uses wax capsules to seal the bottle which come from the beeswax made by their own bees. The bees are very important at the estate. Since he introduced them, Piero has never had a fermentation stop.
Chacra’s story
After tasting a Pinot Noir from Patagonia that draw his attention, Piero started his quest to find the perfect terroir in the Rio Negro. He discovered Mainque, a vineyard benefiting of vibrant luminosity, pure water, strong winds and planted with ungrafted vines dating back to 1932 and founded Chacra in 2003. A few years later, he started a partnership with esteemed Burgundian Chardonnay producer Jean-Marc Roulot who makes his whites.
Piero’s approach to agriculture focuses on the balance between soils, plants and animals to maintain a system of self-nutrition, avoiding intervention whenever possible. Due to the nature of the terroir, (dry with plenty of sun and good ventilation) the vines are naturally healthy. All wines are biodynamic.
Wine is the result of thousands of tiny decisions taken every day of the year and the unlimited variables. Weather is a crucial factor, making flexibility and nimbleness key to adapting to any changes the winds may bring. Piero Incisa della Rocchetta
Vineyards & Winemaking
The Río Negro originates from the junction of two meltwater rivers, Limay and Neuquén. The elevation at the valley is between 290 meters (952ft.) and 330 meters above sea level. Mainque’s alluvial soils benefit from high iron concentration producing heavy red clay soils mixed with limestone and loams. Combined with high winds, constant sun and little rainfall, it produces smaller yield and thicker grapes, leading to high concentrations of sugar and natural acidity making them enjoyable in their youth while capable of ageing gracefully.
Maceration and fermentation are carried out in small, round tanks of little depth and great width to maximize skin contact. Maceration is delicate, without excessive extraction, to obtain a balanced and elegant expression. Fermentation takes place at temperatures below 20°C with indigenous yeasts in small cement vats. Wines are filtered by natural decantation to preserve the natural aromas.
Maturation is carried in a mix of concrete eggs, stainless steel vats and oak barrels. Very little new oak is used.
Mainque 2024
Barrel fermented without malolactic fermentation and aged in 18% in concrete eggs, 25% in stainless steel tanks and 57% in French oak barrels (12% new) for 10 months. Fruit forward with salinity and a tasty finish lent by the calcareous components of the alluvial soil.
So linear and driven, with so much tension and intensity. Aromas of sliced apples, lemons and stones. Medium-bodied with flavors of apples, seashells, lemons and crushed stones. It goes on and on. Matured in 30% amphorae and 70% oak. - 97 points James Suckling
Chacra Chardonnay 2024
Sourced from 40 year old vines grown on mineral soils with alluvial stones covered in calcaire. Aged in 20% in concrete eggs, 15% in stainless steel tanks and 20% in used French oak barrels for 10 months.
Aromas of honeysuckle, limes, green apples and a hint of cedar. It's medium-bodied yet very dense and compact on the palate. It's like a tight fist with the fruit and fine phenolics. Long finish. A structured and impressive young wine. 98pts, James Suckling - 98 points James Suckling
Chacra Treinta y Dos 2023
Single vineyard Pinot Noir planted in 1932 on a land layered with clay, sand and pebbles. Aged for 19 months in concrete tanks (45%) and in 2nd, 3rd and 4th use French oak barrels. The most structured of all Chacra’s wines. Its soft characteristics and velvety tannins, make it drinkable at a younger age however it is meant to be aged.
Violets, black cherries, raspberries, crushed stone and orange blossoms. Notes of flower stems, dried sand and bark. Medium- to full-bodied with layers of fine tannins that fill the mouth, giving a crunchiness and open chewiness that reminds me of fine cashmere. Bright and lively. At the end it's like a freshly cut orange just at the right ripeness. - 99 points James Suckling
Cincuenta y Cinco 2024
Sourced from vineyards planted in 1955 on a sea of pebbles, typical in riverbed soils. The whole cluster was fermented at very low temperatures, enhancing the floral characteristics of the wine. Aged for 11 months in concrete tanks (50%) and in 2nd, 3rd and 4th use French oak barrels. It has the highest amount of tension of all the Chacra wines yet it is generously fruity.
Extremely aromatic, with very floral aromas of lavender, violets, peaches and citrus blossoms. It's medium-bodied with firm and crunchy tannins. Structured and solid as a rock. Only 11% alcohol. Magic. Drink now. Why wait? - 97 points James Suckling