I recently discussed with Riccardo Talenti about Brunello's latest releases and other topics such as global warming. Riccardo is the grandson of Pierluigi, who founded the Talenti estate in Montalcino in the 1980s. He is passionate, determined and has been running the winery since 1999 with the utmost respect for tradition.
Located not far from Sant'Angelo in Colle, on the southern slope of the village, Talenti is very typical of Montalcino. It spreads across 40 hectares of vineyards, olive groves, orchards and seed crops and is surrounded by age-old holm-oak woods. Amongst the 22 hectares of vines, 16 are exclusively dedicated to Sangiovese. The vineyards are divided into eleven different plots, each with different altitude, exposure and soil composition, creating red wines that are incredibly complex and profound.
Riccardo thinks the birth of a fine wine depends on constant research into new technologies. During the fermentation, he personally checks every process, from pumping over to punching. He matures his wines for at least 24 months in a mix of fine Allier and Slavonian oak and ages them further in bottle before release.
Tell us something about your winery that not many people won't know?
The winery was founded in 1981 by my grandfather Pierluigi Talenti in Pian di Conte estate, where a bull breeding farm has been active for 100 years. For this reason, the soil around the winery is unique and rich in organic substance. Since 1999, I have been directly following the oenological and agronomic part. Now the winery has 25 hectares of vineyards and the production is lower than 100,000 bottles.
What was the most important decision you had to make for the 2020 vintage?
The 2020 vintage was generally warm with a faster ripening, so the most important decision was to anticipate the harvest, preserve the acidity and keep a lower alcohol together with fresher fruit
Which other vintage is most similar to 2020?
The 2015 is similar considering the ripening and generally the climatic condition, but the at same the wine is very different because of the acidity and fruit are much fresher and younger
What has been the biggest change at the winery over the last 5 years or so?
In the last 5 years not many things have changed. The new cellars were finished in 2010 and subsequently only a few more vineyards were planted, but no other structural changes.
What can you do at the winery to manage "Climate Change" and increasingly volatile weather?
The problem of climate change is the non-regularity and the difficulty in predicting what will happen in the long term. We must be flexible and understand how the plants will react in the ripening period. Heat, cold, rain and drought require a different managing of the vineyard.
Do you think introducing classified 'Cru' or recognized subzones to Brunello di Montalcino would be positive/helpful?
The cru identifies a selection made by each single winery based on the vineyard potential and related to a specific philosophy and expression. For the subzones I believe they could be useful for the consumer to identify the area of origin but nothing more. Montalcino has a variability of soil and microclimate that in a few hundred meters change totally.
What does Rosso di Montalcino mean to you?
Rosso di Montalcino is the expression of the youngest and freshest Sangiovese, a more flexible and transversal wine that has a dynamic approach, while remaining a wine that can be paired with all dishes, both meat and fish soups. A wine that shows young but also with an excellent longevity.
What is your go-to vintage for drinking right now?
At the moment I would say that the 2010 Brunello shows perfect drinkability.
What is the most memorable wine from your estate you have ever tasted?
Certainly if the cork didn't cause any changes, I would say that the first vintage, 1981, has an exceptional maturation process, as the 1988.
What other wines or wine regions inspire you the most right now?
In Italy I would say that at the moment my interest is certainly captured by Piedmont for the Barolo and Langhe Rosso, and by Etna region.
Where is your favourite place to eat around Montalcino?
Alle Logge di Piazza In Montalcino for its informal atmosphere and good wine list; Trattoria Il Pozzo nearby the winery for local and family cuisine.
What is your favourite food to pair with your wines?
Definitely foods rich in proteins, red meats and vanison, but also pasta with ragu, cold cuts and aged cheese.
If you weren't making wine, what else might you do?
Very difficult question given that I was born in the countryside and raised in a wine estate but, surely having a passion for food, I would have done something related to catering.